In the house of Amparo and Victoriano, producers of Andean potatoes in the extreme heights of Kishki, in the central Peruvian mountains, sheep, chickens, ducks, turkeys, some pig are raised than another and the ubiquitous cuy. They kill one pig a year for their own consumption and a cuy for the main party, which is usually that of Amparo's birthday, and the rest is sold; between animals and potatoes paid for the studies of five children. Your meals are monolithic: potato with broth at breakfast, potato with sauce for lunch and potato mazamorra in the evening, with sugar and milk from your animals. Also some cheese for the uchucuta. History is repeated almost by step in the hamlet of Victoria, producer of Andean potatoes and tubers in Condorccocha, in the Ayacuchano district of Chiara, or turning to maize in the kitchens of Magdaluz, Victoria, Cristina and the other women who form a small cooperative dedicated to the cultivation of choclo in Pampas, Huancavelica: maize is the staple of all meals. This was true yesterday in the universe of subsistence agriculture: you grew and raised animals to eat, weave or troll.
Halfway through my last climb to the house of Victorian pointed out to me the figure of his father, who stalked a deer on a neighboring hillside. He was around 80 and could still go down the mountain with a deer on his back. When I ask you about the life expectancy in this part of the saw you respond that it has gone down, it is no longer normal that they pass 85 years. His father's generation lives around 100. Blame the difference to the diet change: they now sell potatoes to buy noodles, rice and canned tuna, or to eat chickens and piglets fed you don't know what when they go down to Huancayo. They went from survival agriculture, completely natural, to the diet of manipulated cereals, pesticides, chemical treatments to the field and animal proteins debtored to all of the above. There were diseases that didn't suffer before,
Josep Roca spoke in the last Madrid Fusion of the management of gibberish in which the service of a menu of 25 deliveries in the universe of allergies is converted. My body was shrinking while I was listening to him. Not because of the difficulties involved in menu planning when intolerances cover almost everything and one more ingredient, but because of the reflection you do about what may have caused this kind of pandemic that we suffer for the last generations; what we eat conditions our relationship with food. Antibiotics, growth hormones and medicines applied in intensive breeding of terrestrial and marine animals, or chemicals applied to soil. Natural crops are an exception today,
Review the essential Dictionary of Traditional Peruvian Gastronomy, by Sergio Zapata, and find hundreds of references of chupes, locros, chili peppers, soups, ajiacos and other traditional preparations without the slightest look of animal protein. The popular Andean cuisines were mostly vegetables. The meat came in the form of a camel charqui, cuy or dried fish. The stripe, tollo, paiche and other marine and river species continue to appear salty and dried in thepopular recipe.
I like to find young concepts that contemplate the cuisine from an exclusively planting point of view. Some approach, such as Edgar Núñez in Sud 777 and Rodolfo Guzmán in Boragó, while others turn to it with good results. The cuisine of old Almazen, in Lima, was recreated in the traditional pout, taking you to the stroke of locros and stews to the most popular recipe of Andean cuisine. Sacro, in Buenos Aires, marks a path that leads to rupture and beauty, opening the door of modernity in green. Other young concepts and of our time are as stimulating as Elektra Punk & Food, Denise Monroy's vegan fast food in Bogota. At the stroke of almond cheese balls, cauliflower tacos, ice cream or (all-vegetable hot dogs) show the face and refreshing of a kitchen that above all aspires to be fun, healthy and above all aware.