Village cuisine, a philosophy of the 21st century. The usual dishes, like never before

MOST IMPORTANT thing of my work is not to get star recognitions or other awards, the most important thing is to have given visibility to a village of 24 inhabitants in which we have generated a seed so that it does not die". At Venta Moncalvillo, says chef Ignacio Echapresto, cooking is an end, but also a medium. The restaurant of Daroca de Rioja has become a tourist attraction in itself and a creator of direct and indirect employment. The same has happened to Lera (Castroverde de Campos, Zamora), Casa Marcial (La Salgar, Asturias), Molino de Alcuneza (Alcuneza, Guadalajara) and Hospedería El Batán (Tramacastilla, Teruel). That is precisely one of the main values of village cuisine, Echapresto defends. "In such a globalized world, where sometimes you don't look too much inward, we choose to do it," he adds,

In the stoves of all these places is carried out a kind of archaeological work of collective gastronomic memory. In Lera, for example, pickle has ceased to be a disused elaboration to thicken the list of main dishes. The llámpares, formerly served in the Asturian cider houses, can hardly be found in four or five restaurants in the region. One of them is Martial House, its owners count. "When we started we gave value to dishes that no longer ate, to dishes of poverty, of popular culture. We have reinvented them," says Nacho Manzano, who runs the venue with his sister Esther.

At a time when the pursuit of sustainability is also about reviewing food, rural restaurants demand their balance with the environment. They are the standard of concepts that are now fashionable, but have been carried out for centuries. "We've been practicing zero kilometer all our lives," Esther Manzano jokes. It is the countryside and the sea that mark the availability of the products, and the ingredients come, for the most part, from a nearby environment that feeds on the success of the locals. "Our workers live, work and spend. We shop in the town's businesses and have a lot of customers staying in surrounding places. The surrounding taxis are all the time bringing and carrying people. We have 20 suppliers in 20 kilometers around," sums up Luis Lera.

After years of avant-garde and looking out, they advocate looking back. "The revolution that is coming now is to recover those flavors, the origins. Gastronomy is culture such as cinema, literature and theatre. It's something we do every day; you don't read every day anyway, but eat yes," says Samuel Moreno of Mill of Alcuneza,


 

texto_grande An old mill in the North Sierra of Guadalajara.

Located in Alcuneza, a municipality of just over 30 inhabitants, the restaurant Molino de Alcuneza has gone from being a family business that struggled to survive in the pre-Internet era to being recognized with a Michelin star. Fine dining based on humble indoor cuisine,

"Summary-Title">Black garlic soup with cod stew and free-range egg ravioli
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Ingredients for four people,

▪ For the soup: ▪ 1 kilo of free-range chicken wings ▪ 2 tablespoons milk powder ▪ 2 leeks ▪ 1 ▪ onion 1 slice of village bread ▪ 3 cloves of purple garlic from Las Pedroñeras ▪ 1 head black garlic ▪ Paprika ▪ Extra Virgin Olive Oil.

For the corn and coconut stew: ▪ 100 grams of desalinated cod coconuts ▪ 100 grams of desalinated cod calluses ▪ 1 small onion ▪ 1 tomato ▪ 2 govers ▪ 1 garlic clove ▪ Mild olive oil

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▪ For egg ravioli: ▪ thin sheets of bread from the previous day ▪ free-range eggs ▪ Oil and salt

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Making chicken broth

—First of all, let's brown the chicken wings with a little milk powder until they get quite colored. Then we cover with the vegetables and toast them also well in the oven.

—We cook six hours over a low heat to get all the flavor out,

—We queue, degrease, reduce, and keep,

Garlic soup

—In a saucepan, put some oil and fry the bread. Remove the bread and brown the garlic, the black garlic and finally the paprika. Top with chicken broth. Add the bread, crush the soup and strain,

Cod stew

—Saute the onion, tomato and meat from the ñora. Next we make a pilpil with the sofrito and with the coconuts and calluses.

Ravioli

—Let's cook an egg, to which we remove the shell and wrap in film paper with a little oil and salt so that it is shaped like a ball, for four minutes so that the white is curdled and the yolk is raw

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—With a piece of bread from the previous day and with the help of a cutter, we make some very thin sheets, which we will use to wrap the egg and make the ravioli.

Finishing and presentation

—At the bottom of the plate, place a generous spoonful of pilpil. On it we will put the egg ravioli previously marked in a frying pan so that the bread is golden and crispy. Salt the garlic soup around and decorate with a black garlic clove and thyme,

—When eating, break the egg and mix all the flavors and textures in the mouth,


 

The Sierra de Albarracín with bites.

Maria José Meda says that when he opened 20 years ago the Hospedería El Batán, one kilometer from Tramacastilla (Teruel), no one wanted to go there. Now its territory cuisine has become a tourist attraction in a town of just over 100 inhabitants. "Products are our story. They must be revalued".

)Borraja de Aragón with slices of boletus, cod coconuts and truffled violet mashed potato

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Ingredients for four people,

▪ 400 grams of borage ▪ 250 grams of laminated boletus ▪ 250 grams of cod coconuts ▪ half a liter of water ▪ A pinch of Maldon salt ▪ 2 garlic cloves

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▪ For mashed potatoes: ▪ 250 grams of potatoes ▪ Half a litre of water ▪ 10 centilitres of truffle oil Tuber uncinatum ▪ 20 grams of truffle ▪ Sal to taste.

Erate with boletus and cod

—Whiten the stalks of the slush in boiling water with salt for five minutes. Pass it through cold ice water and immediately gently remove skin, pulling with your fingers or peeling. 

—In a wok preheated with oil and garlic cloves, add the boletus sheets and cod coconuts and, over a gentle heat, do not stop stirring making a pilpil. Finally, add the slabs so that they finish cooking.

Making of truffled violet mashed potato

— In a scoop, cook potatoes, olive oil, truffle, water, salt and truffled oil for 30 minutes. After this time, we chop it with a fork so that it stays compact and thick. Book.

Finishing and presentation

—In the center of a white flat plate we place a base of truffled violet mash. On one side of this we put a mountain of borage pilpil with slices of boletus and the cod coconuts. We crown edgit with aioli foam,

—We finished the decoration of the dish with grated truffle, truffled oil and some Maldon salt powders. Always serve warm,


 

Everything's at home.

Nacho and Esther Manzano were born under the same roof where they now cook. Casa Marcial was filled and local meals on request. "The only recourse we had was our habitat and the memory of what my mother was doing." In La Salgar (Asturias), a village of less than 15 inhabitants, they offer a kitchen of commitment to their land.

"summary-title">Rice with fillers
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Ingredients for four people,

▪ For Fish Broth: ▪ 300 grams of seaweed ▪ 600 grams of sea bass cola ▪ 250 grams of parsnial ▪ 215 grams of onion ▪ 300 grams of ripe tomatoes ▪ 1 bay leaf ▪ 1 branch of parsley ▪ 750 grams of dry sherry ▪ 100 milliliters of dried odorous ▪ 5 litres of water

▪ For the sauce of llámpares: ▪ 20 grams of garlic ▪ 100 grams of onion ▪ 375 centilitres of cider ▪ 500 grams of ▪ 180 centilitres of olive oil ▪ 2 liters of fish broth ▪ 5 grams of sweet paprika.

For rice: ▪ 200 grams of senia rice ▪ 600 milliliters of llámpares broth

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▪ For the llampares: ▪ 24 units of the highest quality ▪ 1 liter of seawater.

▪ For the filling: ▪ 8 slices of Iberian bacon ▪ 1 Asturian chorizo ▪ Hierbas (e.g. alsine or sea fennel).

Fish Broth

—We chop the fish and fry it in the oil, which we will incorporate 5 liters of water that will already be boiling. In the same oil, we pochae all the vegetables very slowly and when they are already in place we add the chopped tomato. We let their water evaporate a little and wet with the wines. Evaporate the alcohol and add to the fish broth. Cook and reduce to 2 litres of broth. Then we rectify the salt point. In the end we infuse the seaweed in this broth and set aside,

Makeup of the sauce

—We shave the garlic and onion until it is clear. Add paprika and cider and let it evaporate. Add the llámpares and cover them with the ready-made fish broth; We let it cook for 30 minutes, strain it and set it aside. Crush the meat from the fillings to a fine paste texture,

Rice processing

—We boil the 600 milliliters of caldo de caldepares, add the rice and cook it over medium heat by stirring from time to time. When the rice is at its point, we take it out of the heat and let it rest for 3 minutes,

Processing of the

—We heat the seawater to 70 degrees and infuse the lapas for three minutes to separate from the shells. We left the lapas with some water from the infusion,

Finishing and presentation

—We put a very fine slice of bacon on the rice, a few freshly opened fillers, some alsine or sea fennel sprouts and a few, pre-cooked, crispy chorizo sticks, marked to make it crispy,

—Serve immediately,


 

The flag hunt.

It opened only four years ago, but Lera, in the Zamorana Castroverde de Campos, has become a place of pilgrimage for lovers of game meat. Luis Lera, the chef, returned to town after 15 years for the love of roots. "We've taken popular cuisine and put it in a 21st century restaurant.

"Summary-Title">Mountain Rabbit Pickled
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Ingredients for four people,

▪ 1 rabbit ▪ 500 grams of mild virgin olive oil ▪ 500 grams of white wine vinegar ▪ 500 grams of white wine ▪ 3 onions ▪ 4 leeks ▪ 6 carrots ▪ 6 garlic cloves ▪ ▪ Black pepper ▪ Be

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Elaboration

—In a Parisian or deep frying pan, oil and meat are put on until golden. Afterwards all vegetables cut in julienne are added. And the bay leaf, the salt, the pepper corn, the fresh thyme and the whole garlic,

—When the vegetables are well processed, vinegar and white wine are added.
—The meat is allowed to cook until it softens.
—It is left to cool.

Finishanding

—Cold or tempered pickle with juice, accompanied by a green leafy salad seasoned with salt, oil and vinegar.

Remarks

—If kept in the refrigerator well covered, it can last two to three weeks. The amounts of oil, salt and vinegar do not have to be exact,


 

The value of the simple.

"A great dish is the one that is made with a humble raw material and manages to awaken sleeping sensations". Venta Moncalvillo, in Daroca de Rioja, was born as a project of Ignacio and Carlos Echapresto to continue living in the place where they were born. Thanks to the two brothers, the area has become a culinary destination,

Cheese, honey and split nuts

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Ingredients for four people,

▪ For cheese: ▪ 1 fresh goat cheese

▪ For the walnut stick: ▪ 130 grams of ▪ milk 3 gelatin leaves ▪ 100 grams praline hazelnuts ▪ 110 grams of walnut praline ▪ 270 grams of cream.

For honey cake: ▪ 300 grams of egg white ▪ 60 grams of almond flour ▪ 100 grams of heather honey ▪ 50 grams of sugar ▪ 20 grams of flour.

▪ For honey dice: ▪ Half a liter of water ▪ 150 grams of heather honey ▪ 30 grams of vegetable jelly

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▪ For presentation: ▪ fresh pollen ▪ caramelized nuts.

Cheese processing

—Cut the cheese into dice and drain well so that you release all the serum,

Walnut Stick

—Boil the milk with the cream and the two pralines,

—Add hydrated gelatin leaves, let it temper the mixture a little, and pour into a silicone pan.
—Freeze until frozen and unmould

ed.

Cake preparation

—Mix all ingredients with a blender, strain and put in a siphon with two gas loads. Pour the siphon mixture into plastic cups and microwave for 45 seconds. Let it cool and serve,

Preparation of honey dice

—Heat the water together with the honey at 80 degrees and, when it reaches this temperature, dissolve the vegetable gelatin. Pour into a pan and leave to cool. Cut dice and set aside,

Finishing and presentation

—Put the cheese on a flat plate and, on top of it, some pieces of honey cake and caramelized walnuts. Next, put heather honey and, on this, the honey stick; sprinkle fresh pollen and finish with honey dice,

—Season: all year round,